Ok, so I got back from Croatia, as I promised to Boris I will write a set of impressions (it will be a bit harder to write them in english, but I'll do my best
) :
First, the 'most useful' information for those who plan to travel to Croatia:
- Exchange rate: ~ 7.25kuna=1euro ( ~2Kuna=1 RON - 'new' Romanian Leu)
- Gas price: ~7.85 kuna (3.9 RON), 95 unleaded. You can find 98 too, at some gas stations, I don't remmember the price
- Highway tolls - approximatively 0.4 kuna/km (this is a rough approximation). From Vrpolje to Zagreb (the piece of highway from entrance to Croatia to Zagreb, a little more than 200km) it's 84kuna.
- Traffic: avoid weekeneds
Roads are surprinsigly free during the week, but there are some very nasty trafic jams in the weekend. Especially on the Zagreb-Split highway, you may get queues up to 20km at the Mala Kapela and Sveti Rok tunnels. Roads (other than highway) are generally 2 lanes (1 lane for each directions), and I think they are a bit more narrow than in Romania. However, traffic is generally very light and the speed limits are decent (unlike Hungary or Romania!!! - you can generally travel 'legally' at 80km/h in the villages - the speed limit is 70 and you can add the '+10' margin).One thing I found especially pleasing in Croatia is that the road signs (including speed limits) make sense, and you aren't tempted to ignore them. You know that if there is a speed limit - there is a good reason for it. Roads are generally very good - maybe not 'perfect' as in germany but better than Romania and Hungary (in Hungary I'm talking about the road Nadlac-Szeged-Baja-Mohacs-Udvar). Unlike Hungary, the toilets are free at the gas stations (my wife is pregnant so we had to make frequent stops
). In my guide about Croatia it was written that 'tail gating and reckless overtaking is a national sport in Croatia' - hahaha. They should see Romania. It's true that we saw 2-3 examples of reckless overtaking (it seems that in Croatia, as well as in Romania (and Hungary, in fact) , BMWs and AUDIs have different driving rules - of course I'm not talking about members of this forum
). We even saw a complete idiot who turned his BMW 180* in the middle of a high-speed road (100km/h speed limit) and in a place with little visibility - we braked at the limit to avoid collision. But other than that, drivers are generally disciplined and polite in traffic.
- Accomodation: do not look for hotels. On the coast and in the Plitvice area, there are PLENTY of free rooms (private accomodation). We found rooms at an average price of 50 euro/night for 4 persons; we rented a either large apartment with chitchen & two rooms, or a simple room (with just a bathroom) + a small appartment (room+small kitchen) and once (in plitvice) we rented two rooms(i.e. no kitchen, but the host said we could use theirs). Do not look for rooms in large cities - you will find them to be more expensive and worse quality. Instead, look for small villages that are near the city (e.g. Zaton near Dubrovnik, Kastela near Split, Borik near Zadar etc.). If you go to Zagreb, it is probably best to look for private accomodation in advance, on the internet. I would reccomend Mirna Noc (250kuna = 125 RON /night),you have very good conditions there (and 250 kuna is a good price for Zagreb). In all the other cities - it is best to just look until you find the best offer (don't stop at the first one that is 'acceptable' - say that you'll come back because you want to see several offers; our experience was that we were always able to find something better within 10-15 minutes). Ah, and I would reccomend that you go towards the beach to find the accomodation - don't just limit your search to the main road, the best offers are not there.
Don't worry that you won't find a place to stay. We were in the high season, and we had absolutely no problem. If you go by car, it's quite easy to find decent accomodation. I would reccomend though that you get your room before the sun sets, I don't know how willing are the hosts to discuss with you in the middle of the night
later edit food: between 160-270kuna at restaurants (80-135 RON), including tip (~10%, or less
it was already fairly expensive...). And note that we didn't pick very fancy restaurants.... One bad habit (that I don't understand) is to serve juice at 0.2l - completely insufficient, IMO. Another bad habit is to serve old cucumbers - they are typically the size of a vegetable marrow (in fact, the vegetable marrows are smaller than cucumbers in Croatia). So if you like cucumbers, bring many of them from home, in Croatia you won't find small ones, not even in vegetable/fruit markets. And avoid mixed salads
. And, the last bad thing about food: don't order soups. Croatia is the home of Podravka, and unfortunately you can see this in all the soups, we didn't manage to find one without Vegeta
so we eventually gave up.
That being said, food is generally very good, I don't want to leave the wrong impression. Eat a lot of seafood, Croatia is the appropriate place to do so. I wasn't so impressed by grilled squids (Calamari), I liked the 'scampi' (langustine) better. Also I liked very much the 'cevapcici' (hope I wrote it correctly - they are similar with the Romanian "mici" except that they are smaller and thus better grilled; also the composition is slightly different, I think).
If you eat in fast foods/pizza, it is cheaper. For example, in Osijek, 1 kebab (much bigger & better than those sold at the Black Sea) was 17 kuna. Juice/water/ice tea is also more expenisve than in Romania (cheapest water we found was around 3RON for 1.5l, but you will typically find juice/water at 0.5l at 8-10 kuna). Also mineral water is much more saltier than the Romanian one (especially Jamnica), I even suspect that it's not very heathy because the Na+ content is huge. Still water (i.e. non-gaseous) is ok though (especially Jana). Milk is very good in Croatia, and cheaper than Romania (I found UHT milk, 3.8%, at 5.4kuna=2.7RON, and remmeber that we didn't go to a hypermarket....). Beer ("pivo") is a little more expensive than Romania, but not too much. I liked the Croatioan beer, you should try it before 'foreign' beer (e.g. Tuborg, Stella etc.), you may like it more, and it is cheaper than foreign beer.
And now to the route - we stayed 10 days in Croatia. Our vacation was mixed visiting-sunbathing&swimming, and we also tried to avoid very long journeys in one day.
Day 1: Arad-Zagreb (via Nadlac-Szeged-Baja-Mohacs-Udvar-Osijek);short visit through Osijek, visited Zagreb 'by night', met with Boris
. Zagreb is a very nice city, especially for a capital, I liked it a lot, unfortunately we didn't plan too much time for visiting it (from my p.o.v., capitals are typically 'not-so-interesting'). I liked Osijek too, and it has the advantage that it is cheaper than the rest of Croatia, so it's good to plan to eat there. Dakovo (close to Osijek) looked very nice too, unfortunately we saw it only from the care, I wish we had more time to visit it.
Day2: Zagreb-Rijeka-Opatija, visited Rijeka, visited Opatija. Both are nice but in a different way - Rijeka is a city spread on two hills & the valley between them; Opatija is a touristic resort, a quite 'aristocratic' one. There is no beach in Opatija though, just a concrete platform with stairs descending into the sea - so next day we went to Icici for a bath (it's near Opatija, has a 'stone beach'; in fact, there's very few sand in Croatia, most of the beaches have stones, it's good to buy some special shoes for swimming to avoid cutting your feet in the sharper stones)
Day3: Swimming in Icici in the morning, then we went to Zadar. We slept at Borik (which is some sort of suburb of Zadar, but also a tourist resort). We also ate at Borik,at restaurant 'Albin' (it was reccomended by our 'in-your-pocket' guide to Croatia) - I really don't reccomend that restaurant, I didn't like it at all; in fact after that experience, we ignored the guide when it came to restaurants (however the guide was very useful, I would reccomend that you buy/borrow such a guide if you plan to make a trip to Croatia). We visited Zadar in the evening; the 'modern' part of Zadar is not nice at all - but the old city is beautiful, worth visiting. In fact, there are so many nice places to see in Croatia, I don't even know which one I liked most.
Day4: swimming in Borik, then Zadar-Split, on the coast (not on the highway - the coast road is beautiful, really worth driving on it). We visited Sibenik and Trogir on the way, and slept in Kastella ( a village made of 5 different small villages, each of them having a different Kastel; it is very close to Split). Sibenik - we didn't even know whether to stop there, we planned a 1h stop and ended up spending 3h, it is a charming city. I was mostly impressed by it, because I didn't expect it to be so nice.
Trogir I thik is more popular, and is also very very nice. We ate at a restaurant there, turned up to be the most expesive meal of our trip even though we looked for a cheaper restaurant
- so watch out for the prices in Trogir.
Day5: Swimming in Kastela, visiting Split in the afternoon; The 'modern citiy' of Split is not very nice, the old city is ok but after Sibenik and Trogir - we weren't so impressed. In fact, quite surprisingly, Split was the city that we liked the least in Croatia; maybe also because of the 'split summer festival' - they closed some of the central part to build stages, and also covered the most interesting gate with a large banner
Day6: Swimming in Kastela, then the road Spilt-Dubrovnik. On the road to Dubrovnik you have to cross the border to Bosnia & back, but it's ok, they won't even look at your passports, they hardly stop the car to look at it.
We slept in Zaton which is a vilage close to Dubrovnik. We stayed at
http://www.dubrovnik-online.com/villa_patricija/ - the house belongs to a retired Austrian and his wife (which is, as they said a 'holliday souvenir from Croatia' for him
- so she is born there (in Orasac, near Zaton) but she lived most of her life in Austria and they came back to retire in Croatia). It was the nicest accomodation we had during our trip - we took the room & apartamaent for 2 days, for just 90 euro. I think she (the host) liked us, and this is why we had this discount. I suspect that they don't rent the rooms for money, but for fun, to talk with different people (they have a maid so they don't to the cleaning themselves). They were very nice and friendly, both evenings they invited us to stayed with them outside for a drink - with this occasion we tasted some very good Croatian wine and liquer
. The only "bad" think about this Villa was that we felt like guests in a friend's house, i.e. I wouldn' go with the kids there, I would be too afraid that thay would spill something or damage something in the house.
On day 6, we also went to visit Ston; unfortunately we arrived pretty late (we went to look for accomodation first, and then returned to Ston). However, the town is very nice too, it has a 5km fortification system which is the largest in Europe. And the food is excellent there, too
.
Day7: swimming in Kastella, then a visit to Dubrovnik. As Boris wife's said "everybody tells you how nice Dubrovnik is, but you can't really imagine it until you get to see it". A really beutiful place. Unfortunately, even if it is mostly restored, in some parts you can still see the traces of the bombardaments
Day8: the road back to Split, than on the highway to Plitvice. We ate in Omis, which is also a very nice resort - and I think they have sand beaches, too! Plitvice is in the mountains, so it is considerably colder then the coast. The road to Plitvice goes through Kraijna, which was badly impacted by the war. You can still see damaged hoses, empty villages and so on... it is pretty sad. We stopped to sleed in Karlovac, but it wasn't probably the best idea, we should have went further to sleep in the north of Plitvice.
Day9: Visit Plitvice lakes. They are really very very beautiful, and different from the rest of our trip (natural beauty vs. cities). It is worth to reserve a full day for visiting Plitvice, you have plenty of things to see and it's a pitty to be in a rush. Entry to Plitvice is quite expensive (95kuna - almost 50 RON per person) but we found out that they will only check your ticket when you take a boat, and you can visit the whole park without taking any boat
. Just kidding, I don't think it would be wise to be caught without a ticket....
Day 10: The road back to Romania
It was weekend, so we had lots of traffic, and a shorter-than-planned stop in Osijek.
well... that's about it. Croatia is very nice, worth visiting, especially worth visiting by car. There are still many things we didn't see (e.g. the islands, the 'Istria' peninsula etc.), so we hope we will come back in the future. The sea is very nice there, very clean, and because of the islands it is also very calm. So it's a good thing to go in one place, and spend a traditional vacation at the seaside. In fact, right now I don't imagine why someone in the western part of the country would spend the vacation at the Black Sea and not in Croation (it's actually a shorter trip, and as I said - the sea is much nicer there).