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Retrofit Rezistenta Incalzire Habitaclu

R19/16v
post 27 Oct 2011, 12:09
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Nu am gasit in vreun manual descrisa functionarea ei, doar conditiile care o inhiba.
Spre exemplu numarul de rezistente autorizate sa porneasca este dictat de sarcina existenta pe alternator, de turatie, de timpul trecut de la pornirea motorului si de temperatura lichidului de racire.


LE Am gasit si functionarea:

QUOTE(MR372J8487B000)
NUMBER OF RCH* REQUIRED
*RCH = Passenger Compartment Heating Resistor

The passenger compartment heating resistor control conditions are:
Manual air conditioning (not automatic):
ET169 Engine is Running,
ET015 Passenger compartment fan Active,
PR002 Exterior temperature < 5˚C
Engine coolant temperature < 50˚C (refer to injection computer),
Electrical availability - 60%, alternator load < 70% (refer to the Power and Switching Unit).
Climate control:
ET169 Engine is Running,
PR002 Exterior temperature < 5˚C
Engine coolant temperature < 50˚C (refer to injection computer).
Electrical availability - 60%, alternator charge < 70% (refer to the Power and Switching Unit).
Heat demand by the user (refer to the climate control computer).

NUMBER OF RCH* AUTHORISED BY ALTERNATOR

There must be no present or stored faults.
Special note:
This information is usable only on vehicles fitted with passenger compartment heating
resistors.
Calculation performed by the UCH according to the alternator power available
(information supplied by the UPC).
This information allows the number of passenger compartment heating resistors to be
supplied depending on the available power.
The status, depending on the conditions, will be 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5.

In the event of a fault, perform fault finding on the UPC (see 87G, Engine compartment connection uni
The parameter PR010 (UPC) of the alternator charge should be less than 70% so that the passenger
compartment heating resistors can be authorised by the alternator.

NUMBER OF RCH* CONTROLLED

The passenger compartment heating resistor control conditions are:
– Heater motor running.
– Battery voltage > 12 V.
– Interior temperature < 10˚C.
– User temperature setpoint in warm position (> 20˚C).
– PR002 External temperature < 5˚C.
– ET015 Passenger compartment fan ACTIVE.
– ET018 Number of RCHs authorised by alternator > 0.
– ET019 Number of RCH* authorised by injection computer > 0.
– PR010 (UPC) Alternator charge < 70%.

Attached Image


Intrucat informatiile sunt pentru Scenic, dar valabile si la Megane (cu mentiunea ca la megane exista doar element de 1000W, deci rezistentele 1, 2, 3, FARA 4 si 5) presupun ca nu deranjeaza pe nimeni daca raman si aici.

This post has been edited by R19/16v: 27 Oct 2011, 16:44


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Mirko
post 27 Oct 2011, 20:21
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QUOTE(R19/16v @ 25 Oct 2011, 17:17)
Am luat rezistenta, am bagat-o, am testat, merge.
Ramane sa-mi fac curaj sa bricolez blocul de climatizare biggrin.gif
*


Salut!
Spune-mi te rog de unde se poate cumpara rezistenta!
Multumesc!
Numai bine!


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R19/16v
post 27 Oct 2011, 20:29
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Dezmembrari!? smile.gif Reno?
BTW, fa-ne un pustiu de bine, ca ai un benzinar bine echipat, da jos plasticele alea de p-acolo si vezi daca ai cablaj.


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connectorxp
post 27 Oct 2011, 20:43
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Foarte interesanta solutie si in sfarsit vad ceva logica in haosul specific francezilor.


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gabriel.brd
post 28 Oct 2011, 08:18
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QUOTE(R19/16v @ 26 Oct 2011, 19:57)
afaik doar dieselurile si/sau masinile livrate in tarile reci.
Dar, daca exista cablaj, e treaba de 1h sa pui rezistanta pe masina. Sunt curios ce randament va avea la dezghetat parbrizul...
*



O intrebare:
doar diesel-urile = toate diesel-urile?
Adica ar trebui sa am si eu? Nu de alta dar stau aprox. 10 - 12 min pana sa simt ceva caldura si deja ma gandesc sa-mi iau o alarma cu pornire automata.


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valikris2002
post 28 Oct 2011, 08:26
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teoretic doar diselurile, eu am 4 in familie din care testat la 3 au la al 4-le un clio III nu am fost convins de existenta rezistentelor, avand si clima automata, dar nu cred ca conteaza, ca ideee.
referitor la modulul de pornire al masini din telecomanda, am vrut eu, am gasit ceva pe la 1000 ron insa pe megan nu se pupa din cauza modului in care e facut sa se imobilizeze meganul, ceva nu se pupa cu uch-ul masinii


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R19/16v
post 28 Oct 2011, 14:43
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Pare-se c-am uitat sa spun - dupa munca fizica, vine si cea intelectuala smile.gif UCHul trebuie configurat sa foloseasca grupul de rezistente.


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cosmonwo
post 28 Oct 2011, 18:45
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Ce am mai observat este ca la relanti nu se incalzeste nici apa in circuit si nici caldura de la rezistente nu prea da. Dar dupa pe plec de pe loc, pina la prima trecere de pietoni deja se simte ca incalzeste. Asta confirma ca in functie de sarcina pornesc mai multe rezistente. Deci ideea cu pornirea remote nu o sa ajute deoarece la relanti nu se incalzeste (testat de mine 15 minute la temperaturi joase, sub -10).


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R19/16v
post 28 Oct 2011, 19:06
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Citeste ce am scris eu mai sus!


Si dovada ca merge smile.gif

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This post has been edited by R19/16v: 29 Oct 2011, 00:39


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cristian_nechita
post 29 Oct 2011, 11:28
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Am o curiozitate.La a mea, daca sunt sub 5 grade afara, si dau climatronicul la 27 grade, creste relantiul la aproximativ 950.Daca insa daca dau pe 26 grade cand in masina sunt cam 26 si practic baga aer caldut relantiul sta normal la 800.Imediat cum apas pe butonasu rosu si afiseaza 27 grade creste relantiul la 950.Fara sa apara o sarcina suplimentara pe partea electrica, gen ventilator mai turat etc etc.
La fel fac toate?Sau poate a mea are rezistenta cu pricina.Doar daca sunt sub 5 grade se intampla asta.La temperatura care este acum afara, 11 grade, nu exista nici un fel de variere a relantiului.

Ca idee unde ar trebui sa ma uit dupa rezistenta respectiva, mai precis dupa cablaj.Caci daca nu este cablajul, nu cred ca ar fi cineva care ar indraznii sa improvizeze un cablaj pentru ~140A.Mi sa parut o adevarata aventura sa trag un simplu cablu pentru subwoofer, deci cablu pentru un astfel de consumator l'as incadra direct la categoria "Imposibil".

Oare Megane-urile de 1.9 au termoplonjon cu 4 bujii incandescente ca Lagunele de 1.9?

LE:Ca fapt divers.A mea scoate aer cald dupa un minut e mers.Daca o las pornita la relanti insa sta cam 10 minute.

This post has been edited by cristian_nechita: 29 Oct 2011, 11:30


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valentin_29
post 29 Oct 2011, 14:44
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Intrebare scurta oameni buni: Iarna cand imi pornesc aceste rezistente, incepe sa se simta caldura data de la ele cam dupa 5 min sa zic asa. E normal sa fie asa "lenese" ?


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cristian_nechita
post 29 Oct 2011, 15:05
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Am elucidat misterul.Se pare ca si eu am acea rezistenta.Am dat jos capacul de langa pedalier si se vede clar ca este acolo.

Cat despre incalzit, la mine cam in un minut baga caldut.Deja dupa 3 minute incepe a se misca acul la temperatura motorului(Am EGR-ul inchis, si de atunci se incalzeste mult mai repede).Asta fara rezistenta pentru ca in ultimu timp dimineata nu au fost sub 5 grade, si e prima iarna de cand am megane.

Decat o singura data am descoperit ca e ceva ciudat cand erau 3 grade afara si imi urca relantiul la 950rpm cand dadeam caldura la maxim, insa atunci nu stiam de existenta acelor rezistente.
Ramane de vazut la iarna cum se comporta la -10 grade.



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R19/16v
post 29 Oct 2011, 15:23
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Conform manualului ralantiul este accelerat cand rezistentele sunt cerute.


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burliu
post 31 Oct 2011, 09:43
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Buna dimineata
Va ca de citeva zile nu mai baga caldura pe climatronic doar pe manual, are legatura cu ce s-a spus mai sus ? sau este altceva ?
Multumesc


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panavision
post 31 Oct 2011, 16:36
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Deci cablaj am, trebuie sa produc o rezistenta si ceva timp sa bricolez. smile.gif
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Daca detine cineva un cod pentru rezistenta sa fiu sigur la dezmembrari ca iau ce trebuie, ii multumesc anticipat.


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CRI72
post 31 Oct 2011, 17:57
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cristian nechita spune-mi te rog ce inseama egr inchis ( e blocat pe inchis ? si daca da nu ai eroare pe bord ?)

This post has been edited by CRI72: 31 Oct 2011, 17:57


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R19/16v
post 31 Oct 2011, 18:14
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7701207715

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-RENAULT-...2-/270593653597

Desi ce am pus eu arata asa:

user posted image

Codul piesei de 1000W: Valeo 664447A-G
Codul piesei de 1800W: Valeo 666601CC

This post has been edited by R19/16v: 1 Nov 2011, 07:23

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cristian_nechita
post 31 Oct 2011, 23:49
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QUOTE(CRI72 @ 31 Oct 2011, 17:57)
cristian nechita spune-mi te rog ce inseama egr inchis ( e blocat pe inchis ? si daca da nu ai eroare pe bord ?)
*



Initial am obturat conducta care ducea din galeria de evacuare in supapa egr, insa au aparut proble, mai bine zis sa topti tabla de aluminiu cu, care o blocasem.
Dupa care am gasit solutia , aparent perfecta, am intors supapa egr cu 180 grade, practic corpul supapei acoperind zona pe unde patrund gazele din evacuare.
Supapa poate fi intoarsa , insa trebuie modificat corpul acesteia ca sa o poti prinde din nou pe scaunul ei.

Ce am obtinut?
Fiind mult mai mult aer in camera de ardere, motorul trage mult mai de jos, nu mai ezita ca inainte, consumul a scazut dar probabil din cauza schimbarii stilului de mers.Motorul trage atat de bine jos incat nu mai urc cu el pana la 2500-2700.Practic la 1300rpm apesi pe acceleratie si trage, nu scoate pik de fum.La electronica nu am facut nimic.Supapa se misca liber, deci calculatorul o vede ca si cand ar fi in regula.

Ce am pierdut?
Probabil in egala masura atat eu cat si voi, am pierdut o bucatica de aer fara NOx din Bucuresti.


Am un prieten care lucreaza la un dealer VW si imi spune ca absolut toate TDI-urie care vin cu EGR infundat in garantie, li se curata egr-ul dupa care se obtureaza ca sa nu se mai intoarca si a doua oara.Diferenta e ca la VW e mult mai simplu, practic se pune o tabla intre 2 flanse.Extrem de simplu.


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panavision
post 1 Nov 2011, 11:20
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Am comandat rezistenta, astept cu nerabdare sa vina. smile.gif


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R19/16v
post 1 Nov 2011, 11:27
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De unde? Reno?


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panavision
post 1 Nov 2011, 12:33
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De pe ebay, din link-ul tau.


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R19/16v
post 1 Nov 2011, 12:48
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Muuuuuuuuuuuuult mai simplu era sa te duci la orice parc de dezmembrari si s-o iei d-acolo, de pe orice megane dci, sau 307, sau nush-ce citronel... smile.gif
O sa-ti vina cand o sa fie cancer afara si n-o sa-ti arda de bricolaj tongue.gif


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panavision
post 1 Nov 2011, 13:12
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De obicei dureaza maxim 1 saptamana. Am avut surprize sa-mi vina si in 3 zile. Oricum cel mai mult face la noi in tara. Vine coletul la Bucuresti sta 1-2 zile pe acolo, apoi pleaca la Galati unde mai sta 1 zi si intr-un final ajunge la Braila. Cam asa functioneaza Posta Romana la noi. Oricum e mai simplu si mai rapid asa pentru mine, pentru ca stau prost cu timpul si nu am cand sa alerg pe la dezmembrari.

Revenind la partea de bricolaj, poti sa-mi spui cu ce ai decupat acolo? E suficient un cutter mai serios sau ai nevoie si de altceva?

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R19/16v
post 1 Nov 2011, 13:58
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Asta in varful asteia.


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AMZ
post 1 Nov 2011, 14:29
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astazi am remarcat dupa ce am citit acest Topic ca si eu am pe masina aceasta rezistenta, dar a trecut o iarna si eu nu am stiut de acest lucru, mentionez ca nu am climatronic, iar in iarna ce a trecut porneam ventilatorul doar cand crestea temperatura la apa, din ceea ce am citit aici ar trebui ca aceea rezistenta sa porneasca cand dai drumul la ventilator si este temp.scazuta afara, dar daca este defecta rezistenta? sau ceva sigurante arse, cum se poate verifica?
stima

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R19/16v
post 1 Nov 2011, 14:35
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Maine dimineata cand te sui in masina, da drumu la temp la maxim, viteza ventilatorului la 1. Ai putina rabdare si vei auzi releele, iar in cateva secunde vei simti aer cald.
Daca nu auzi releele, cineva nu autorizeaza pornirea rezistentelor.
Daca auzi releele si nu vine caldura, e stricata rezistenta.


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Mirko
post 2 Nov 2011, 12:25
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salut!
astazi m-am iutat la mine la megane si nu am rezistenta ,din pacate nu am nici cablaj furios.gif

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R19/16v
post 2 Nov 2011, 12:36
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O fi doar pe motoarele de 2 litri?


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panavision
post 2 Nov 2011, 13:03
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Cred ca depinde si de nivelul de echipare. Eu de exemplu am avut si cablajul pentru cruise control tras pe masina, chiar daca masina nu a avut asa ceva din fabrica. La fel si pentru oglinda heliomata.


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R19/16v
post 2 Nov 2011, 13:05
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Pai da, dar el are un Privillege, mai bine d-atat nu se putea.


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